Paracord Lock

Why I Like It

Paracord locks are one of those prints that look simple but quietly do a lot of work. The concept is a friction-fit cord lock — slide it onto paracord, cinch, and it holds. No buckle, no hardware, no moving parts. Just geometry and material doing the job. Used right, it replaces barrel locks, cord stops, and toggle ends on everything from stuff sacks to jacket hoods to custom lanyard ends.

Wally’s guidance here is direct and important: use strong plastic and go higher on infill. This is a load-bearing print in the most literal sense — it’s holding tension on cordage that might be keeping gear closed, securing a bag, or lashing something down. PETG at 60%+ infill is the floor. ABS if you need heat resistance. ASA for anything that lives outside. PLA will creep under sustained tension and eventually let go at the worst time. Don’t cheap out on the material or the infill on this one.

Print orientation matters: the hole axis should run perpendicular to the bed for maximum layer strength along the pull direction. Test each one before trusting it with gear you care about — give it a firm tug and make sure it doesn’t slip or crack. Once you have a dialed-in print, these things are genuinely robust. Print a dozen. They disappear into kits and you’ll want spares.

What Filament Should You Use?

Here’s a quick breakdown of the three most common filaments for EDC gear so you can pick the right one for your setup:

TL;DR: Use PETG for most EDC prints — easy to work with and tough enough. Use ASA if the piece will live outdoors or in direct sunlight. Use ABS if you need maximum rigidity and heat resistance and have an enclosure on your printer.